Surfing to be happy

When we go surfing we know that we can catch the wave of our dreams, but we also know that we have to be resilient and never give up. Many days we go to the sea and the waves are difficult and it is cold, and sometimes rain too. In those days we think about what we are doing there. And then we catch an incredible wave, which makes a difficult session an unforgettable one. We spent the rest of the week closing our eyes and feeling that we were on that wave, that day, that moment and we thought that if we had not had the ability to go despite the setbacks we would never have caught that wave. We are happy because we were and because many times despite being afraid we did not give up. We surf because it makes us happy.